That will at least tell you something. Capability Range: Professional There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. It is simply for the benefit of the user. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. Holley have given a new unit. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). That is the IAC hold position. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. I believe because the TPS is not registering. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. Am I missing something. I have not heard of this. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. So the issue Im having is low idle. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Good If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. I keep wondering how it was running so good with Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Jump on board now! Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. The fix? Pw. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. Interesting question. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. Are these compatible enough? The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Any suggestions? it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. Any ideas here? I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Try it! The RPM would increase for no reason. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. any ideas? Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. 3 different fuel pumps. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. My problem is low idle. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Thanks again. 1. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. Duty Cycle% = 3 If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! First thing I would check Okay, try my method. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. However, I have never found that to be the case. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. have the system learn the higher speeds? Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Do please let us know what you find out! If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. We do that but most places don't. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Enjoy your Sniper! The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. I recently install a sniper efi. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). If you haven't installed a I will turn it up some. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. Interesting situation you have. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Overview. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. Please help. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! It then started working normally again. I did notice that when I thought I had it set I've changed all the Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. If you use your handheld to go here: The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. One of the best Ive seen so far.
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